Aggression



Question:

I was wondering if anyone here has had food aggression issues with their doxies? I have never dealt with it before but Lucy definitely gets unusually protective of her food.

She is spayed, 6 months old, very sweet and sociable (she likes meeting people, children, other dogs). She is a rescue (I adopted her as a puppy) and she came from a foster home with lots of other dogs and puppies. I am wondering perhaps if she learned to be protective of her food because there were many pups eating together? She has always done this but it seems even more pronounced now that she is a bit older.

I am now feeding Lucy and Barney separately. She eats in her crate and he eats just outside the crate. The only problem is if she leaves her crate (it is not latched) for any reason and Barney or I get near her food -- she growls and I think might potentially bite one of us!

Is this common? And what to do about it? Thanks, from Trish and Barney Fife and little Lucy Trish in Atlanta

Responses:

Trish, some dogs can be very food aggressive. For now feed them separately and pick up bowls when done. I would hold Lucy's bowl and hand feed her kibble and praise her. Teach Lucy to sit and wait while you put her food down and not to start eating until you say ok. In time put some kibble in the bowl, then hold some in your hand and add them to the bowl while she is eating. In time you should be able to pick up the bowl from her when she is eating. .When you are hand feeding her you can put some kibble in your hand put your hand in her bowl and let her eat the kibble with your hand in the bowl. My 6 are fed separate and I always watch. Dryfus was very food aggressive and I fed him in another room and worked with him like I suggested for Lucy. Dryfus turned 2 today and if I say trade he will stop eating and look for what I have in my hand. Also I can now let him eat in the hallway near the other dogs. I don't let my other dogs clean each other bowls when done if I can stop them.

Lynne Burke

Although Dachshunds are considered stubborn, you'll find that food aggression is not indicative of a particular breed, but more the result of the pack order position in which they were born. The way that the pup is then trained (or not) and handled, usually determines how they will be during adulthood, as long as the training remains consistent. Bottom line is that owner is the alpha- the boss, and anything considered bad should be nipped in the bud by the owner, and not the aggressive dog.

Food aggression, or any other dominant aggression, is considered unwanted behavior around here, and they know it.

Having Goldens and Dachshunds makes it all the more important that this rule be enforced, for safety sake.

J. Fazio
http://www.goldendox.com

She may be trying to exert an alpha attitude and guarding food is one way. Also the Alpha female is the one in the pack that is the most important one to make sure she has food for perpetuating the pack. Perhaps it relates to that. You should reinforce that YOU are the alpha and have full control over her food, toys, etc. You should be able to take things away from her and not risk getting bit. This can be critical especially if she gets into something dangerous.

Jill Blasdel, President
Dachshund Rescue of North America, Inc.

I'd feed her in the crate, with the door shut, until you've done some training with her. The "take it, leave it" command is a good way to let her know that you're the boss when it comes to food issues. Long downs also helps you to establish a dominant role. Then practice the leave it by giving her the food, and then giving the "leave it" command, and taking the bowl away. If she scolds, you give her a "no!" When she stops growling, praise her. Once she's quieted down, just waiting for her food, then you put it down, give her the "take it" command, and praise her when she eats (which you know she will!). Paco has been known to be in this mode during past am meals. He got used to his long downs (with just a hand command being used) during this time when he would have preferred sharing Sunni's breakfast. I'd also practice the above at treat time.

Jeannie
http://www.goldendox.com


Question:

This is something I have wondered about too; any practical suggestions on HOW to assert oneself?

Karen (who will not let Samson & Quincey read the answer!)

Response:

Karen,

Start by holding the food bowl and having the dog sit and then feed it a few pieces of kibble, That is one way. I know a lot of ways and if you are interested let me know. Some others are if they bring a toy for you to play with them make them sit or do a down , shake a paw or anything and then play with them. Make them ask to be let up on beds or chairs if they are allowed. For real aggressive dog even when they want to be petted it is initiated by the owner. It takes a lot of work but for dogs that want to dominant or be aggressive it helps. You need to be consistent.

Lynne Burke


Question:

Sometimes Samson thinks he owns the house :) It seems worse since Quincey was "added" but I realize there may be some sibling rivalry going there! (for want of a better term...) Doesn't matter WHAT Quincey is playing with/ chewing on, Sami wants it!

Karen

Responses:

Karen, With toys I would let them work it out themselves unless there is real fighting, ( not just noise.) Sailor has to have everything Dryfus is playing with and he gets a pile of toys all the time. Poor Dry. I do have a few toys that are Dryfus and only he gets to play with them. Sailor actually hoards any toy anyone else is playing with as soon as they look away. However I don't give my guys rawhide chewies without crating them as that is the one toy there have been bad fights over.

Lynne Burke

This advice (of Lynne's) reminds me of similar suggestions provided at obedience school, when Sunni, my first big dog, was a puppy. Her constantly trying to assert herself as the pack leader (with me, believe it or not!) led the teacher, and her extremely responsible breeder, to give me very similar advice.

Bottom line is to keep re-establishing dominance until the dog in question gets it. How long that takes depends upon a bunch of things; the clarity and consistency in which you perform these practice sessions (so as not to confuse the dog), your assertiveness, the dog's stubbornness, intelligence, and your patience . Like I said earlier, the long down is supposed to be the best way in which to assert your dominance over a dog, for you have total control while they're in this position.

By the time Sunni and I first learned of the long down, she was already to the point where she felt quite strongly that she was the pack leader (only 16 weeks, or so). After 2 or 3 consecutive days of 30 minute downs, she had had enough. Upon the 4th, or so, day she gave me a warning growl, letting me know that she did NOT feel comfortable going into this position any longer. If I had given in, that would have been it - I truly think she would have been a real problem dog to this day. But because I continued to force her into the down (holding her collar with one hand, and the leash with the other, and keeping my face away from hers, just in case she snapped) until she reluctantly gave in, she is the nicest girlfriend one could ever have. She has never challenged me, from that day forward. Well, once in awhile she will, but never with a growl. She just gets a bit pushy in wanting onto my lap (thinks she's a Dachshund), or to give me slurpy kisses. I know what she's up to, and simply, but just as forcefully, tell her "no." The most important thing is that she never growls, and my gentle commands are enough for her.

Some of the more subtle ways that are very similar to Lynne's examples, which shocked me upon first learning of them (who would have thought that these kinds of things mattered to a dog) include making the dog move when you need to get by, vs walking around or jumping over. Feeding yourself before pup gets fed is another way of establishing leadership. When you watch the wild dogs on Discovery, the alphas eat first, so that makes total sense to me. Walking in the door before allowing the dog to do so is another subtle way. Add these to what Lynne has suggested, and you have an armful of techniques in which to practice teaching your dog just who is boss, and doing so in a humane and non-threatening way.

Have fun, pack leaders. :->

Jeannie


Question:

When your puppers are fighting, how do you separate them/stop them?

Yuki

Responses:

Yuki, If my guys are fighting usually a strong" quit"( and I don't use the word quit except in really bad situations so they know I mean business) or I will try and stick a leg in between. Try and grab something to stick between. If I am outdoors and thought my guys might fight I would have a pail of water handy to dump on them. I try and control the environment as much as possible so there are not dangerous fights even though they sound horrible. Never, never stick your hand in. We know that but my hubby had a reflex reaction on Christmas morning when a fight broke out and ended up needing a few stitches. The only fights I worry about is when Dryfus is involved as he is so much bigger than the others. BTW Dryfus never starts the fights. It is always the dachshunds.

Lynne Burke

I usually stick a foot in between them. Best defense is a good offense - I've gradually learned what things tend to cause fights and try not to let those things develop. I've also smacked both pups with a pillow off of the sofa when I didn't want to risk life and limb.

Janet

A trainer told me to pinch one of the dog's nose as though you can get close enough and have the time to do that, plus even think of it. I keep looking at a scar on my arm that I got when one of my fosters had muckled onto Spike.


A footnote on aggression

There are dogs that need more extensive training from a professional because their aggression is too severe for the owner to handle.

If you experience a dog that continues to growl or worse yet, bites you, the children and/or other dogs, you should immediately see an experienced dog trainer, one who specializes in positive dog training, who can help you fully analyze and possibly correct the problem.



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